Monday, 22 April 2013

History of Korean Fashion

As everything around us changes, the world latches on to new trends, so is the orientation towards fashion. Creativity is something that gets enhanced when more heads come together. This is one of the main reasons why Korean fashion is coming up these days. The concentration is mainly in Seoul, but the spread of it is increasing to other major cities.
However, Korean fashion is not as recent thought to be. The first fashion show in Korea happened in 1945. Yes, that far back. Any further development was, however, arrested as the military government denied permission for these shows and considered it as a luxury not required by their economy. By the 1970's, there was a rise in Korean fashion again. All the designers came forwards and showcased their designs. Everything was experimental as this was a very new field and exposure to them.
Things were gradually on the rise from then on. Globalization had its own impact on the Korean fashion industry giving it global exposure. Students from other countries would come to Korea and study their fashion and their own designers would go out and look at what the world is wearing, what it prefers over what, and so on. This led to an interchange of ideas that was detrimental to the boom in Korean fashion. Had this not happened, perhaps Korean fashion would not be the new hot wave in fashion.
The period thereafter is crowded with many political and social happenings which are important in the context of fashion. These include war, changing economy, different governments, bifurcation and so on. It is to be kept in mind that Fashion as a creative field has its own liabilities and consideration is a must before investing. Therefore, due to the economic slowdown, there was a lack of financial interest shown to this field. It picked up after 2000, and 2007-08 are the years where Korean fashion got accepted truly and globally. Seoul Fashion Week and Seoul Collection are well known phenomena in the fashion world and no one wants to miss them. Right now, experts in the fashion industry have said that it is the fashion genre with most potential.
There is still some lack of awareness, however. Korea is still known as a mass exporter and manufacturer of cheap goods, and many designers have not fully acknowledged their unique services and talent. This is, however, changing and will slowly entirely vanish.
eestend.com is a Korean fashion website for men and is based in South Korea. We hope to bridge the gap between the fashion industries in the West and the East. We hope to introduce and share with the world, thousands of talented independent designers in South Korea.

Japanese And Korean Fashion

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Korean Fashion

Korean fashion is at the forefront of trendy and wearable fashion. With heavy influence from luxury styles and runway fashion, their trends are always chic and unique. Korean styles differ from Japanese fashion because the fashion tends to be more tailored and mainstream and not as focused on niche identities. Korean fashion is an excellent example of the new types of avenues available to consumers to explore!

Korean tailoring is careful to compensate petite women and their unique body frames. Small charms and adornments create the unique look that draws the yearning eyes of fashionistas from around the world. What exactly distinguishes Korean fashion from other fashion? It is the unique presentation of mixed patterns and designs without fear of mismatching. Layering is an important facet of the complete Korean outfit. A shirt is usually layered with another along with jewelry that compliments the look. Fob fashion is a Korean style, which usually relies on extra large shirts (baggy styles) with cutesy designs printed on them paired with oversized shorts or tights. The fob style tends to emanate an innocence in the way the outfits are put together. It is a type of fashion, which brings a child-like quality to the ensemble. The sexier Korean styles are trends and designs of the past merged with a futuristic flavor. They wear clothes that emphasize small waistlines and that create the image of broader shoulders like the wardrobe of the 1980s. The clothing patterns are an echo of the past but are infused with influences from runway style fashion. No matter which style you prefer, one thing is certain; all of the fashion is chic and contemporary and is worn differently from person to person.

Accessories are also a very important aspect of Korean Fashion. If you were to look up Korean fashion online, you would notice that handbags, shoes and jewelry are all carefully coordinated to complete an outfit. Coordination even goes as far as nail polish to make sure every outfit is complete. Hair is another accessory, which is carefully used as a finishing touch to certain outfits. Korean fashion tends to be a complete expression of oneself with care to every detail.

Korean Fashion in Seoul

Reyes and Cowling favor an exhaustive if exhausting pace, so we visit a rough-hewn spot called Korea Paper, in the Insadong neighborhood, where sheaves straight off the bark are for sale, as far from cool South Korea as you can get but somehow cooler still for it. Our next stop is the supremely ratty but fascinating Dongmyo folk flea market, near the brand-new Zaha Hadid–designed Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park, whose bright roof is ultra-green in both senses of the word. At the outdoor market, antique ink brushes decorated with jade and turquoise are an insanely cheap $10 (I buy a bunch for gifts, but as of this writing have not been able to part with any of them). Cowling wants to show me Cheonggyecheon Stream, a sunken-riverbed version of Manhattan’s High Line, where couples stroll. Am I nuts, or are a lot of these pairs dressed alike? The fellows laugh and tell me that, yes, this is a supremely South Korean phenomenon—for people in love to dress like twins, and it even has a name: “couple-look.”
I want to go to the famous Dongdaemun night market, which, as I understand it, is really rocking at 2 a.m. Though it’s only nine, the market (actually a series of huge, warehouse-like malls crammed with everything from shoes to suitcases, camisoles to coats) is hopping. Here among the supercheap clothes I select my own version of Seoul’s tulle tutu with, fortunately, a drawstring waist (clothing here runs small), that costs around $54, from a booth called Primus.
“You’ve picked a hot spot!” says Mun-Soo Kwon when we meet on Sunday at the Rose Bakery in the awe-inspiring Comme des Garçons store in Hannam-dong, Seoul’s newest rediscovered neighborhood, which has been described as the equivalent of Manhattan’s Meatpacking District five years ago. (To wit, across from Comme, a building that houses a firm called Dada Associates has a pink pig on its roof.) Kwon lived in the United States and worked for a number of designers; now he’s come home to start his own line. Today he is impossibly handsome in Comme diaper trousers and a cutaway jacket.
The Comme store (seven floors connected by five tunnels) is just in front of the Leeum, the Samsung Art Museum, whose three buildings have been designed by Mario Botta, Jean Nouvel, and Rem Koolhaas. But there’s no time to enter this renowned temple of contemporary art! Instead we taxi back for lunch (Italian, what else?) at the Galleria, Seoul’s answer to Bergdorf Goodman. Though we have a bit of trouble finding it, Kwon insists that I must see Space Mue, and he is right. A vast screen on the wall imprints fleeting pixels on a beige Lanvin coat; a cardigan from the British cult brand Marcus Lupfer sports gold sequined lobsters on its pockets.
On my last day in Seoul, I am finally being treated to a Korean luncheon courtesy of Kuho Jung, whose line, Hexa by Kuho, I had the pleasure of seeing at the Park Avenue Armory during New York Fashion Week. Mr. Kuho, as everyone calls him, is carrying an electric-green schoolbag that he just bought in Hong Kong and has thick nerd-chic spectacles. He lived in New York City for years, and we reminisce about Manhattan in the 1990’s.
I know that Mr. Kuho wants to take me to 10 Corso Como, and it has required all my strength to avoid entering this temple of mercantile delights earlier in my trip. At last lunch is over and we are ready to pass through the store’s polka-dotted portals. I have been to the Milan flagship, and it is justifiably famous, but this...well...this is something else. The all-white interior is the perfect backdrop for merchandise both obvious (Alaïa, Marni, et al.) and less familiar—Kuho’s clothes are here, including an abbreviated jacket with a thick rubber back belt. I am besotted by a series of vintage crocodile and alligator purses by a designer called Dylan Ryu, who finds Chanel and Dior bags at the Porte de Clignancourt market in Paris and Portobello Road in London, then artfully embellishes them with ribbons and badges.
Kuho and I drive over to Mapo-gu, an area near Hongik University with a bevy of small shops specializing in leather and jeans to serve the local student population. It’s a low-rise quarter, far from the glassy towers that typically define Seoul, and the boho residents could pass for Williamsburgers, but for the surfeit of Vuittons—real? fake?—dangling from their black-clad arms. We visit Market M, a store famous for its simple wooden furniture. At Mee, the rough-hewn cement entrance gives way to a plethora of plaid trousers and oversize argyle pullovers. When it’s time for a break, I shyly suggest an Ann House—I’d love to see one before I leave, I say, and am astonished that Kuho has never heard of it. But persistence—and help from a smart phone—locates a branch right in the heart of this unlikely hipster neighborhood.
Ann House turns out to be a study in saccharine perched on the second floor of an office building. “We call this Princess Style,” Kuho tells me. All the other patrons are teenage girls; we sit on pink-and-white floral sofas and eat sugary cakes—offered free with the sugary drinks—in our own little room, where a pink Mickey Mouse fan buzzes on the table and illumination is provided by a chandelier dripping with purple plastic crystals. As we gaze out the window at the passing scene—young lovers exuberantly dressed in couple-look; trendsetters with choppy haircuts—Kuho muses that places like this are fast disappearing in a changing landscape of upwardly mobile, sleek Seoul. “Every time I walk down a familiar street, there are new stores, new restaurants I’ve never seen before,” he says. “You go away for a few weeks, and Seoul completely changes.”

Famous Korean fashion designer

In a generation where picking the right clothes to wear is considered a competition, who do ‘people who create clothes’ acknowledge as fashionistas?  We’ve asked designers who are meticulous in observing people and clothes. There’s no exact answer. It’s the variety and diversity. Some said this ‘muse’ who’s also known as a ‘fashionista’ doesn’t care about what others think but has belief in herself/himself. Some also said though his/her attires are simple, nevertheless, they feel that ‘he/she looks so good in it.’ However, even most of the designers’ feel the same way about this ‘fashion icon.’ This idol is a group member who’s chosen many times as a ‘fashionista.’ Their jobs depending on other people’s eyes and attention, the results are unpredictable.
Designer Lie Sang-Bong who creates traditional, Korean fashion; Designer Son JeongWan who creates a craze in elegant, lady-like, ‘CheongDam-Dong daughter-in-law look,’ an art in international market; Designer Jung KuHo, who received acknowledgement in the woolen fabric industry; Designer Kwan HyunJu known for her ‘celeb’ looks;  Designer Kye HwanHee who was a participant in New York’s Fashion Week ‘Concept Korea’ and was also chosen as a leader in next generation fashion; Designer Lee Chung-chung, a creative director of ‘LIE’ which was recently launched together with Lie Sang-Bong; the opinions of these top designers in the nation will be  revealed.
The best ‘fashionista’ G-Dragon… Designers love ‘idol fashion’ = A person from the fashion world retorted, “Do you still not know which ‘fashionista’ designers like the most?” The public likes him, celebrities envy him, even many designers acknowledge him as a ‘fashion icon,’ he’s Big Bang’s Leader, G-Dragon. He is also considered like a ‘brand’ together with group members from Big Bang and YG Entertainment. He has also built his own style in the music world.

Designer Lee Chung-chung commented, “Even though G-Dragon wear daring outfits, he doesn’t look weird in it,” and added, “He flaunts varieties of styling, and always make it look perfect.” Additionally, Designer Kye HwanHee says, “He creates his own style like wearing Thom Browne’s (American designer for men’s clothing) suit pairing it with a baseball cap.” He also added, “It’s a very refined look but still has a little-boy feel.”
Another Big Bang member who designers are definitely looking forward to as a ‘fashionista’ is TOP. One of the best designers after Andre Kim, Designer Lie Sang-Bong commented about TOP’s fashion. “Though he always shows his colors through his styling, it doesn’t look awkward.” In addition, Lie Sang-Bong complimented, ”Just like his name, his fashion sense is ‘TOP’ as well.”
Idols from certain girl groups like 2NE1′s CL, Girl’s Generation’s Jessica, and Wonder Girls’ SoHee has entered the radar of the top designers. Designer Son JeongWan who class-A female celebrities look up to commented about Jessica, “She creates this lady-like vibe be it on stage or shows; she also sticks with her sophisticated airport fashion.”
Designer Lie Sang-Bong explained, “I always admire CL’s daring style. It’s amazing how she has the skills to properly combine simple but diverse products. She completes the style with her impressive attitude.” Wonder Girls’ SoHee’s ‘mix-match’ style got Designer Lee Chung-chung’s attention.

Born to be a ‘fashionista’… Female actresses are Designers’ ‘muse’= though many people take idol stars as their ‘fashion icon,’ on the other hand, designers envy those ‘born to be a ‘fashionista” with great bodies.  Perhaps, a ‘muse’ is like their oxygen.
3 of Korea’s female actresses: Song HyeGyo + Choi JiWoo + Jang MiHee in Jung KuHo’s ‘hexa by kuho.’ A unique but beautiful face and body type that fits clothes very well is weighed in more than a luxurious style.
Moreover, Executive Director’s Jung commented on Song HyeGyo before the photos were displayed for Chanel’s ‘Little Black Jacket.” Designer Jung said, “She is a female actress that fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh and other world-class writers would choose if they were to choose globally.”

Designer Lee Chung-chung and even the public mass approves of famous actress Gong HyoJin as a ‘fashionista.’
This designer also commented about Gong HyoJin who has a nice body shape, “Whatever item or styling, her body has this mystery that makes it have a ‘Gong HyoJin’ feel.”

Saturday, 20 April 2013

Best Fashion Designers of India


Fashion industry of India has seen a boom and gained popularity in world as a fashion centric nation. Earlier, not many people knew about India and Indian fashion. However, today India is a renowned nation famous for its elegant woman’s attire named “Saree” and the fabric. Today, Indian Fashion designers are well known faces in the International Fashion Industry and it is because of these fashion designers that India is in the list of top countries. The Indian fabric and Indian textile is equally popular and in demand in international markets.
India is a diverse nation and doesn’t have a unique or a standard dressing style. This diversification of dressing style has given Indian fashion designers ample scope of creativity. The end result of mixing such diverse dressing styles was FUSION. Right from the traditional salwar kameez or sarees to churidars, kurtis, the semi formal way of wearing it over trousers or jeans, capris and the highly elegant and contemporary style of draping sarees, from simply cotton blouses to halter-neck, puffed sleeves, deep necks, and lycra-fitted blouses. Apart from regional attires, the Bollywood element also holds a domineering part in Indian Fashion style.
Let us have a look at the faces who have taken Indian Fashion and Indian Fashion Industry at the top most level. These are the best known faces of the International Fashion Industry and are the

Best Fashion Designers of India Are

Manish Malhotra : At the age of 25, Manish Malhotra forayed into Bollywood by designing for Juhi Chawla in Swarg. Today, at 34, his name is synonymous with style in Hindi films. He revolutionized the fashion scene in Bollywood by envisioning a ‘look’ for the character. His tenure as a costume-designer has seen him clothe most of the leading actresses in the film industry from Sridevi, Urmila Matondkar, Karishma Kapoor, Kajol, Raveena Tandon, Manisha Koirala, Madhuri Dixit, Twinkle Khanna, Shilpa Shetty, Kareena Kapoor, to Aishwarya Rai, Rani Mukherjee and Preity Zinta.
High on his success, Manish Malhotra decided to branch into mainstream designing in 1998 with his high-profile couture store Reverie – Manish Malhotra. He has done several wedding trousseaus for reputed families. His popularity soared during this period when he was exclusively asked to design clothes for Michael Jackson for his appearance during the Bollywood Awards held in New York. The performer was so please that he requested Manish to design outfits for his show in Munich and to design clothes for his children.
Wendell Rodricks: Designer Wendell Rodricks started out as a catering graduate but found fashion designing was more suited to his palate. His minimalist chic style is a rage among Indian clothes lovers and he is known for his passion for white. He has written special features for Apparel, regular columns for Femina, Goa Today and freelance fashion journalism in major Indian news media. The multi-talented designer`s work includes theatre design, advertising styling and forecast portfolios.
In 1994, the Ministry of Culture displayed the Wendell Rodricks Shiva Temples Collection at the Festival of India in Peking, Canton & Shanghai. The designer is a keen art patron and promotes Goan artists through special promotions at the Wendell Rodricks Couture Salon. The Fundacao Oriente awarded a scholarship to the designer to intern at the prestigious Museu Nacional do Traje in Lisbon, Portugal. Wendell Rodricks also interned at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York to learn costume preservation and conservation
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla : ‘The boys’, as the twosome of Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla are known in the fashion circuit, can be considered among first names in that made it big, by way of success, attention, fame and hype. It is a creative alliance that exudes attitude and talent. They were one of the first to display their creations at Harrods. Ever since, the Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla show is a much awaited, though not so frequent event.
Though they lack in professional training, they push ethnic fashion to the limits, almost to the dictates of their fancies. No wonder they claim that they do not make garments, they make heirlooms.
Tarun Tahiliani : He is one of the most celebrated fashion designers of India. He acquired a degree from The Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. When Tarun Tahiliani came back to India, he realized that there was a huge scope in India in the designer wear sector. He brought a revolution in the field of fashion in 1987, by opening the first fashion boutique in India, ‘Ensemble’.
He established the Tarun Tahiliani Design Studio, situated in New Delhi. His own brand label is known as, Ahilian. The brand is known for its creative style and uniqueness. The designer clothes created by him are sold in Tokyo, New York, London, Hong Kong, Dubai and in his stores in New Delhi and Mumbai.
JJ Valaya : Born and raised in the historical city of Jodhpur in Rajasthan, India’s premier fashion designer, JJ Valaya, has made a name for himself as one of the most original and inspired designers working today. The revolutionary fusion of traditional crafts and contemporary haute couture generates an alluring, urbane, one-of-a kind handiwork is the signature of the House of Valaya. Valaya has rejuvenated and redefined age-old Indian crafts as a profitable niche within the cosmopolitan market, allowing the valued artistic processes to live on despite the pressures of globalization.
In 1994, Valaya became the first Indian couture label to have a solo show in India. Met with enthused reactions by fashion critics and buyers, the label opened JJ Valaya Life, India’s largest single designer store till date. Since 1997, the House of Valaya has shared the catwalk with many of the world’s top designers in Hong Kong, Singapore, Bangkok, London, Dubai, New York and Paris. As one of the most respected designers in contemporary fashion, JJ Valaya continues to wow fashion’s toughest critics with his two apparel lines, Couture and Diffusion, and his product labels Valaya Home and Studio Valaya. JJ Valaya’s innovative and groundbreaking styles assure the majestic era of royal India will continue to reign well into the present.
Rina Dhaka: Rina Dhaka is India’s leading fashion designer who burst onto the fashion world in late 1980s. Winner of Yuv Rattan Award, she is counted among the creative and innovative designers of the country. After college, Rina Dhaka did a training project with Intercraft, and with designer Evan Grandhal. She also set up a ‘Salwar Kameez’ boutique for one of her acquaintances. Around this time ‘Mutiny’ and ‘Ensemble’ were just coming up as fashion houses and she made a line of designs for them.
She is best known for her theme collections – sheer trousers, crochet, and stretch jersey, woolens and spider web motifs. Her forte remains western wear, and she prides on the fact that her pieces can be worn as separates. Rina Dhaka emphasises silhouettes. She is not afraid of experimenting. In one of her collections, she had mixed fur and boots with her Indian outfits.
Rina Dhaka has held shows in London, Paris, New York, Singapore, Hong Kong, Dubai, and Jakarta. Her Singapore shows in 2001 and 2002 were major success. International fashion magazines ‘Vogue’ and ‘Elle’ featured her work. With brothers Shantanu and Nikhil joining her in late 1990s, Rina Dhaka’ s fashion design has become a family affair. Her designs are available in at Carma -Delhi, Design Studio-Mumbai, Kimaya-Mumbai, Selfridges-London, Coin-Italy and Lord and Taylor-New York.
Manish Arora : In 1997 Manish Arora launched his Label “Manish Arora” and started retailing in India. Three years later in 2000, Manish represented India at the Hong Kong Fashion Week and participated at the first ever India Fashion Week held in New Delhi. The following year Manish launched his second Label “Fish Fry” and showed this collection in six leading cities in India and was stocked at Lord & Taylor, New York.
Arora’s future-in-outer-space inspired line at the Wills India Fashion Week 2007 attracted international viewers. A collaboration with MAC in the pipeline, a successful eyewear range for Inspecs just launched and two new stores ready to open in India in the next couple of months Manish Arora is one busy designer. Chosen for his vision and sense of style and colour references, MAC has enlisted designer Manish Arora to collaborate on a new, Raj-inspired beauty range. The Indian designer, known for his colourful fashion shows, has created a collection of lipglasses, lipsticks, blush and a fabulous eye palette (Eyes on Manish, £30) with bright shades from Yellow to Bright Pink and Acid Green for MAC. And, if what’s inside isn’t enough, the packaging is a fashion accessory in itself.
Rohit Bal : Titled as the ‘India’s Master of fabric and fantasy’ by the Time magazine in 1996, Rohit Bal’s sense of aesthetics is finely honed, and each of his creations is handcrafted to perfection, with meticulous attention to detail. He has access to the best the industry has to offer in terms of materials and workmanship. From villages where local craftsmen weave dreams with magic fingers, to factories, workshops and outlets where retailers jostle for survival, to the opulent grandeur of glitzy boutiques and malls at the best addresses in the big cities of high fashion, Rohit Bal can lead one to the doors of discovery, and he holds the key.
Rohit Bal graduated from New Delhi’s St. Stephen’s College with a first class (Hons.) degree in History. He worked for a few years with his brother’s export company and in 1990 he created his first line, traditional designer wear for men and the rest history. Some of his clients include celebrities like Uma Thurman, Cindy Crawford, Pamela Anderson, Naomi Campbell and Anna Kournikova. Most of the Rohit Bal’s fashion shows in India, New York, Paris, and Singapore are sponsored by The Swatch Group, and he is the brand ambassador for their Omega Watches, since 2001.
Ritu Beri : She is known as the first Indian designer to present a collection in Paris. There is no comparison for her style and elegance. Today her designs have become a highlight in Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, USA, London and Paris. Ritu Beri’s ready-to-wear line is an impressive couture collection that had the French media raving about her. She is one of early fashion designer whose collection made it quite big internationally. Ritu started her illustrious career in fashion when she created her first line of clothing in 1990, called Lavanya. It was a complete success for Ritu in India and on the international market, with the range selling out very quickly.
Ritu graduated from Delhi University in 1987 and after this she decided to do something artisitc and ever since being interested in fashion, the natural choice was to try designing outfits. Ritu enrolled in the newly-opened National Institute of Fashion Technology in 1988. The tertiary education centre is linked to the F.I.T (Fashion Institute of Technology) in New York, and had just been established in Delhi. Lavanya was her graduation collection, if you will, created in December of 1990, after she became one of the first students to complete the fashion study course.
Ritu Kumar : One of the earliest and reputed fashion diva amongst fashion buffs, Ritu Kumar has developed a unique style of her own. Her designs reflects the ancient traditions of Indian craftsmanship in a contemporary fashion. With a background of art history and musicology, which has enriched her horizons, Ritu Kumar’s understanding of ancient designs and the innovative use of traditional crafts has created a new classicism. Ritu holds the status of a revivalist in the Indian fashion industry, which has successfully bridged the gap between traditionalism and modernity.
Ritu Kumar has been designing the wardrobes of the three winning Miss India’s , for their participation in International Beauty Pageants (Miss Universe , Miss World and Miss Asia Pacific respectively ). In April 2002, Ritu Kumar launched her new sub brand, ‘LABEL’. ‘LABEL’ cater today’s woman, who is increasingly independent, discerning and global. It is a modern offering, focusing on the cut, color, drape and feel of the garment. This brand has a universal appeal aimed at today’s mobile lifestyle. It is fashionable, affordable and like all Ritu Kumar products, it is of the highest quality.

Indian-American celebrity fashion designe

New York: Indian-American celebrity fashion designer Anand Jon, already serving a 59 years sentence in the US for sexually abusing aspiring models, was jailed for five years after pleading guilty on a similar charge in a court.

Jon admitted to one count of criminal sexual act in Manhattan Supreme Court on Thursday and was sentenced to five years under a plea deal reached with federal prosecutors.

In turn, Manhattan prosecutors dropped almost their entire case against him. He had initially been charged with preying on a dozen women in a 49-count indictment in New York. 

Assistant District Attorney Maxine Rosenthal told a judge that the deal was accepted "to spare the victims from having to testify at multiple proceedings" and in consideration of his lengthy sentence in California.
Rosenthal said Jon is facing similar charges in Texas. 

The New York prison time of five years amounts to time served in California, which means no additional years will be added to his California sentence of 59 years to life.

Jon had launched a fashion line in 1999 and was featured on 'America's Next Top Model' working with celebrities such as socialite Paris Hilton. His designs have been worn by media mogul Oprah Winfrey and singer Janet Jackson.

Jon's attorney said after the plea that he admitted to the crime so he could get evidence and materials from New York prosecutors needed to "effectively overturn his California conviction."

"Considering the initial 49 charges included allegations of rape, drugging and mafia death threats, the settlement of one conviction involving Alexander's giving oral sex to an adult female was acceptable," they said in a statement.

They said some of the materials turned over by Manhattan prosecutors as part of the pre-trial process would be crucial as he continues work on his California appeal.

Tips to be a hottie at 40 and sexy at 60!


However, some women still make the mistake of either attempting to hang on to their youth by dressing too young or dressing in dowdy, frumpy garments, adding unnecessary years to their looks. We got the experts to tell you what you need to top that 'Sexy Forever' list.
Most fashion designers say that the rising levels of health consciousness in society has resulted in older women being fitter and flaunting toned bodies. "Today, older women are smarter and can carry off most designs with as much elan as a 20 or 30-year-old," says designer Narendra Kumar aka Nari.
So what are the style essentials that a 40 plus women should remember? According to designer Wendell Rodricks, other than getting rid of stuff from the wardrobe, it's more important that women throw away things that look from a certain period. "It's most important to do away with a look from a certain period. Women who grew up in the 60's or 70's should not have hair or make-up from that period," he explains. "Know your personality and choose clothes that complement your body shape and style," advises designer Lina Tipnis. Wendell adds, "Cleavage is great at any age. So go for it, armed with a good flattering bra. Take away attention from hips by layered, sheer effects. It's not as much about the clothes as it is about good skin, hair and natural make-up."
According to Nari, short kurtas or blouses with well-detailed necklines teamed with elegant trousers look great on older women. "Though dresses are still seen as clothes for the young, the longer ones, that end just below the knees, can also be a stylish option for those women who can carry them off well. But ensure clean and elegant cuts," he adds.
Wendell's list of strict no-nos include minis revealing dimpled knees, sleeveless garments if cellulite has taken over the arms and most importantly, excess make-up. "Also, no branded bling bags. It's plain senseless when an old woman lugs around a massive branded bag that looks like it can house a football," he adds. Meanwhile, Lina cautions against mid-riff revealing tops. "That's definitely one thing older women must avoid," cautions Lina.
Sarees with clean cut blouses, salwar-kurtas that flatter the body shape and sleek trouser suits make for other options for formal evening wear. "Make sure you focus on accessories. They go a long way in enhancing the overall look," Lina adds.
Nari concludes, "For today's smart woman, 40 plus is not old. Hence, as far as dressing sensibilities go, unless they are trying to ape teenagers in their style statements, they can opt for almost

Indian fashion tradition

Everyone seems to have had enough of the exotic Indian look. Young designers are cheerfully trading Swarovski-studded tops for chic khadi, discovers Ritusmita Biswas.

Fashion does not need to mean “exotic” with a capital E anymore. Designers are taking a break from the usual fare of jewel-studded lehengas and Swarovski-embedded halter tops. They are getting creative with khadi or ethnic Indian silk instead.

Sujata Sarawagi, who prefers to be known as a textile designer rather than a fashion designer, says: “The exotic look is immensely popular in the bridal market, but it simply does not fit my sense of design and fashion. I would never be wearing such clothes, so why create something which I will never wear?”

“Many of the garments from so-called fashion designers are so tacky that they look like they’ve come straight out of wardrobes from those K serials! In fact, the embellished sarees, the open hair, the large bindis and the heavy jewelry were essentially a look promoted by saas-bahu soap operas. With this craze fading, the demand for such a look is also waning,” says advertising executive Ranjabati Sarkar.

Her friend Nimisha agrees, observing that “such clothes are definitely not for the common people!”

Designer Jaya Misra, who specializes in bridal-wear, disagrees. “There is — and will always be — a demand for such dresses especially as part of a trousseau. At weddings, people want to depict the rich, exotic look. So, these dresses are in demand,” she insists. “As a designer, I am known for my rich bridal designs but at times even I need to take a break from my usual work. I recently sought to capture the simplicity of Indian designs by making optimal use of Indian fibers like khadi,” she adds.

Whatever be the mode of expression of the designer, each garment should have a sense of purpose and only then it can meet the expectations of the buyer, according to  designer Rahul Mishra, who is hailed as the next Sabyasachi Mukherjee on the Indian fashion circuit.

“India has a rich repertoire of unique fabrics and patterns which are yet to be discovered. As a designer, it is my duty to find them and give a new meaning to these traditional forms so that they are accepted by the young, trend-conscious buyer,” he says.

“Why do patterns need to be the same clichéd ones,” asks Fahd Hussein of brand Onseed, which has a growing client base among urban youth who are fascinated by its iconoclastic designs. “Indian fashion  today is intensely boring! The same designs are being replicated time and again. Why does a traditional Indian pattern need to be an image of Krishna, Radha or a peacock? Even offbeat motifs, like posters of B grade Ramsay movies or political pamphlets, can create images which are intrinsically Indian,” says Hussein.

The brand Onseed which is run by an artists’ collective believes that among urban youth, traditional designer-wear is losing relevance. Designer Rina Dhaka begs to differ. “The Indian consumer is reluctant to experiment; when buying designer-wear, they are eager to replicate patterns seen in films or on television. The concept ‘less is more’ is yet to catch on,” she says.

Rahul says, “It is the designer’s responsibility to deviate from the norm and educate his clientele about alternatives.”

India-inspired fashion


Indian fashion has certainly allured the West in a way that they're prepared to tailor their understanding of style. Today we take a look at how the intermingling of two cultures has emerged in the outfits celebrities chose to wear while walking down the red carpet at the Academy Awards.
"There is an inspiration from the flavour of a particular country, especially the East. India has been the centre of attention because we have been marketing our country, our fashion well. The West looks up to the rich Indian heritage and the range of diversity found in every state pleases inspires them to add the Indian touch to their garments and accessories," says renowned designer Neeta Lulla. One of the many Indian influences was apparent when Jessica Chastainmade an appearance at the 84th Academy Awards (2012) wearing a black Alexander McQueen with intricate gold-thread hand embroidery. "Also, Indian colours and fabrics add photographic value to the celebrity while posing on the red carpet. Other subtle colours may merge with the backdrop and may not stand out," she adds. And that reminds us of all the bold and striking colours that surfaced on the red carpet in the recent years - Natalie Portman took home the Academy Award for Best Actress in 2011 wearing a purple Rodarte dress, Scarlett Johansson's wine-coloured Dolce & Gabbana stood out from the rest, Sandra Bullock and Anne Hathaway chose the striking scarlet red as their colour for the evening.
Along with colour, jewellery worn at the Academy Awards too has become noticeable. Designer Nida Mahmood says, "It's no longer about wearing a tiny pearl necklace or just a diamond solitaire. The West has become open towards embracing flashy jewellery." Neeta agrees, "Everyone knows that the Indian gemstones are the most exotic. Uncut diamonds are gaining popularity and are being used in other accessories like shoes, belts and bags, rather than just ornamental jewellery." Sandra Bullock's diamond drop earrings by Lorraine Schwartz pronounced an Indian concept, Cameron Diaz's complimented her bright orange gown with a flashy David Webb bracelet, and The Help actress, Octavia Spencer's Neil Lane jhumkas inspired earrings were gorgeously Indian.
India has emerged as an important influence for the West. Indian fashion showcased in Europe has gained immense popularity and this association has been there since a long time. Nida explains, "When I graduated from NIFT in 2002, Christian Dior did a silk and satin sari-inspired show in Paris. The spring of 2010 hadGucci displaying concepts of Ikat all over their collection. Jean Paul Gautier's inspiration forHermes Spring 2008 RTW Collection was also inspired by India and had sari dresses. And again last year while showcasing his spring 2013 collection last year, the French designer chose the desert state of India, Rajasthan as his muse. He displayed vibrant outfits like shoulder-sari styles, scarves, and silk salwar-style pants replete with embroidery." Designer duo Abu Janiand Sandeep Khosla have been dressing up Dame Judi Dench for several Oscar and BAFTA award shows. "It has been an absolute pleasure designing for her. We try and create something special for her every time keeping in mind her preferences and personality. She has worn our famous chikan twice and one of her favourites has been a red and black beaded coat from our Pakeezah line," says Sandeep.

Friday, 19 April 2013

Traditional Chinese clothing


Fashion re-invents itself from time to time, with some modern touches fashion breathes from its age old roots. Culture and fashion have a strong connection and both keep influencing each other making it two sides of the same coin which is used everyday. Fashion designers are using mixture of traditional and modern techniques, ideas and views to create new trends. The fusion of old and new helps sets new trends. China is an age old country with strong history and cultural values which their fashion clearly connotes, for example age old motifs such as guardian deities, lions and masks of Chinese opera characters.

Xia and Shang Dynasties embarked the dress system in China which enthused the distinctions as to color, design and adornment of dress among the emperor, officials and the common people. During the Sui and Tang dynasty the unity of ancient China and the prosperity of economy provoked a revolution in ideas, thought process with the dresses becoming more and more splendid. During the Song and Ming dynasties because of the intensity of the feudal ideology, the patterns of dress and adornment gradually became conservative whereas by influence from western cultures, the designs were more fitting and tasteful from late Ming.

An outstanding characteristic of traditional Chinese clothing is not only an external expression of elegance but it encompasses an internal symbolism. Today, Fashion designers use a mixture of traditional and modern ideas to create new fashions. Some of the examples which shows influence of Chinese culture on modern fashion includes modern bridal tiara based on the designs from Sung dynasty and the Hunan Province style of embroidered sash made in the traditional colors of pure red, blue, and green. From these examples, it can be seen how traditional Chinese dress is the foundation of modern fashion. Chinese bronze is another source of printed, woven, embroidered, and applied design for clothes. Some of the distinctive designs include dragons, phoenixes, clouds, and lightning. Motifs from traditional Chinese painting also end up in woven or printed fashion designs.

Types of Chinese clothing

There is no uniformity of information as far as the main dress of china is concerned, different dynasties brought in new forms and reforms. Different experts claim different dresses as the main dress of china. However the three main types of Chinese clothing include Pienfu, the Chang-pao and the Shen-i. The peinfu is a two piece traditional ceremonial costume similar to a tunic top extending to the knees along with a skirt or trousers extending to the ankles. The Chang-pao is a one-piece garment extending from the shoulders all the way to the heels, whereas a cross between the two is the shen-i type. Shen-I consists of a tunic and a skirt or trousers like the pien-fu, but the tunic and the skirt are sewed together and essentially one piece like the ch'ang-p'ao. Out of all the three types Shen- I was the most widely used type.

Chinese clothing and current fashion

One of the Chinese dresses getting attention from the fashion community is the cheongsam. Cheongsam is a female dress with distinctive Chinese features. The actual meaning of the word cheongsam is a long dress whereas the dress is also known by the name of gipao. There is a long history behind the name and the dress itself. It is believed that when the early Manchu rulers came to China they started calling a group of them as banner people (giren). The Manchu women wore one piece Chinese dress known as gipao or banner dress. In spite of political changes the dress survived and later went on to become traditional dress of the Chinese women. Cheongsam has high collar which is closed with sleeves which can be short, medium or long depending on the season and taste. The dress is buttoned on the right side with a loose chest, fitting waist and slits up from the sides which aids in accentuating the female shape. The dress is easy to slip on and comfortable to wear. The basic designing of the dress is very simple and it does not require many accessories to go with it.

The dress transforms itself into different piece altogether with different materials with varying lengths. They can be worn on casual or formal occasions. The overall impression the dress creates is of elegance and charm. Due to its simple cuts and stylish silhouettes the dress is admired by women all over the world. The word cheongsam is used for male and female dress both.

FASHION INDUSTRY AND CHINA


With  China Fashion Week 2013 and  MODE Shanghai 2013, the leading international fashion trade show in Shanghai,  as well as the 2013 BIFT Fashion Week  all taking taking place this month, we decided to take a closer look at the fashion industry in China. The fashion industry has undergone tremendous change within the past decade and is continuing to expand at an exponential rate.
What it Used to Be :
If you walked down the street in China a couple of decades ago, you would more than likely see  both men and women wearing the Zhongshan suit (中山裝, zhōngshān zhuāng), the Chinese version of a Western business suit also known as the Mao suit. The suit was originally named after  Sun Zhongshan (Dr. Sun Yat-sen)  after he advocated the wearing of functional clothes.
Women's Fashion in the Past
As China underwent its modernization period, women began to experiment with fashion.  Many more flowery dresses were beginning to be seen, as well as leggings with straps on the foot, hoses that reached up to the ankle, and hairstyles other than just braids. Because China was slowly picking itself up, fashion developed at a very slow pace. Migrant workers began to wear white shirts and black dress pants to work, even if their jobs consisted of manual labor.
Today’s Fashion Boom
China is expected to become the largest fashion market within the next five years. “China’s luxury market is forecast by McKinsey & Co. to soar to US$27 billion by 2015 — one fifth of the world’s total — up from US$10 billion in 2009,” said Emma Charlton in “China’s passion for fashion on show in Paris.” According to fashionista.com, Didier Grumback, head of France’s fashion federation, also claimed China “is a country that is passionate about fashion, like all emerging nations where appearance is of the utmost importance. “ China Daily argues that China’s eye is “set on creating brands and products that will win the world, much like Apple, Louis Vuitton and Ikea” and that it “wants to become known as a design and innovation center - and no longer just as a manufacturing powerhouse.”
Fashion Weeks
In 1997, China Fashion Week was established in Beijing. According to this article, today  it has become world-renowned as not only a “top-rated platform for fashion design, ready-to-wear- accessories, styling and other designs and new technologies,” but also as a “platform for promoting brands, displaying originality, and broadcasting fashion trends” to the world. It has over 320 designers, more than 350 fashion brands, and holds over 768 fashion shows, attracting hundreds of media from all of the world. It is held twice a year during March and October. China’s fashion week has proved to the world that it is not only ready to embrace the fashion industry, but that it is becoming pivotal in the innovation of  fresh new trends.
 Chinese designer Zhang Jingjing Haute Couture Collection during the China Fashion Week 2013Credit: AP Photo/Andy Wong
Chinese designer Zhang Jingjing Haute Couture Collection-China Fashion Week 2013
Credit: AP Photo/Andy Wong

In March 2010, the leading international fashion trade show in Shanghai, MODE Shanghai, was established. It is said to be designed to “cater to the needs of global department stores looking to enter the Asian fashion retail business, and to be an optimized business platform for retailers and fashion brands,” according to its website. It further argues that MODE SHANGHAI is more than a trade show, it is “a gateway of  a tremendous market for fashion brands and designers, as  the future’s axe of the global fashion business.” In just three years, the fashion trade show has flourished exponentially. This year, it was held March 12th-14th.
There are many more fashion shows seeking to crack the Chinese market, including Dior’s S/S 2013 couture show, taking place in Shanghai on March 30 and organized by Bureau Betak.
The Chinese Consumer 
Many Chinese women will spend a larger percentage of their income  on fashion magazines than Western women, according to this article in The New York Times. In the article, Duncan Edwards, president and chief executive of Hearst Magazines International, stated, “We’re going through this wonderful period where huge numbers of women are coming out of poverty into the middle class and beyond. Many of these women are choosing to spend on luxury goods.” Chart of Chinese Women expenditures
With much more recent exposure to Western media, the Chinese consumer is now much more aware of  global fashion trends. Furthermore, according to a 2011 study conducted by Bain & Company, as stated in The New York Times, mainland China ranked sixth in the world for spending on luxury goods ranked by country, and in 2010, it was a US$17.7 billion market where Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Gucci remain the most desired luxury brands.
 International Designers
Because of such a freshly booming fashion industry, world renowned designers are turning their attention to China. After husband David Beckham was unveiled as China’s first ever global football ambassador, Victoria Beckham will be making a series of high-profile appearances in China in an attempt to crack its market with her fashion line. Luxury fashion label Marc Jacobs is also said to be going after China with plans to add six stores a year to its existing 25 in Mainland China and 5 stores to its stores in Hong Kong.
 “I think Chinese consumers can learn very fast. Three or four years ago, they may have been merely chasing logos. Now they seek more than that. The chase now is more about lifestyle, social status and how the brand can fit them. It’s not just about a logo any more,” said Stalla-Bourdillon, Marc Jacob’s chief executive, to the South China Morning Post.
Companies such as H&M, Zara, Topshop, and Karen Millen are opening stores at an alarming rate, as China continues to become the fastest growing market with store numbers.
Chinese Students in the Fashion Industry 
BIFT Fashion Week 2013Chinese students are seeking to gain more exposure and experience in the fashion industry. The applications to Pratt Institute’s fashion program in New York have more than tripled in the past three years. The younger generation is interested more than ever in fashion and in creating a stronger presence in the industry.  This month, the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology hosted its four-day 2013 Fashion Week. According to former vice president of SCAD Hong Kong, “One only has to walk down the street in Shanghai and Beijing today and see the importance of fashion and street style, and how that’s grown and changed in the last 20 years and definitely even in the last five years,” reported